Mountains

The White Mountains, or Lefka Ori, is the largest massif on the island and its highest summit is Pahnes (2.453 m). The heart of this imposing range includes the Mountain Desert, where more than fifty peaks named Sori (piles), reminding of cones, exceed the altitude of 2.000 m. Dolines, reminding of upturned cones are formed at the foot of Sori peaks. This creepy and haunting landscape is a unique geological formation in the entire northern hemisphere.
Hiking in the White Mountains requires fitness, experience and a good sense of orientation. There are several mountain shelters where mountaineers can spend their night.

The highest mountain areas are covered by snow till late June. There are numerous caves, precipices, sinkholes and canyons. The most famous gorge is Samaria in the White Mountains National Reserve, but there are many more: to the south, the gorges of Aradena, Tripiti, Klados, Agia Irini, Imbros and Kallikratis, and to the north, the gorge of Vrissi, Therisso, Cyclamen, Boriano, Dittany, Kidoni and more.

The White Mountains are home to the deepest caves in Greece. These include the dark sinkholes of Gourgouthakas and Leon. The most well-known plateaus include Omalos, Anopolis, Askyfou, Tavri and Niato.

The White Mountains host a great variety of flora and fauna species, which are exclusively endemic (stenoendemic), not to be found anywhere else –not even in other parts of Crete. The areas on the southern side of the mountain range are covered with cypress, oak and pine trees, whereas humid areas favour the development of chestnuts, planes and other aquatic plants.

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The mountains of Ida, better known as Psiloritis, are located in the center of Crete and cover a large part of Heraklion and Rethymnon Prefectures. Among its many peaks and the offshoots of the main massif, the five highest peaks are the most dominant: Holy Cross (2456m), Agathias (2424m), Stolistra (2325m), Voulomenou (2267m) and Kousakas (2209m). Indeed the peak of the Holy Cross is just 3m higher than of the highest peak of the White Mountains (called Pahnes), being the highest point of Crete.

Psiloritis offers an amazing experience to those who try to know it better, and there you can see some of the most impressive landscapes of wild beauty. Deep caves, karstic formations, deep gorges, small plateaus, pine and oak woods, villages on the edge of the cliff, bare alpine zones: all that make up the unique scenery Psiloritis.

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The towering Ida always caused awe to its visitors. Thus, the ancient Minoans considered that as a sacred mountain, where many myths are positioned. The cave of Ideon Andron, close to the wild plateau of Nida, was linked to the upbringing of Zeus, the most important God. Nearby, the sacred spring of Zominthos and the small town, was used as a sanctuary.

The cult of Psiloritis continued even in Christian times. Even today you can visit the stone church of the Holy Cross on the top of the homonym peak, which was built long ago. On 14 September, each year, many locals from all over Crete trek to the Holy Cross, via the path that starts from the plateau of Nida (4-5 hours climbing) and stay overnight at the top, to participate in the Church on the next morning (15 September is the Holy Cross fest). The view from the top is breathtaking, as you can see Crete in all its width, from Heraklion to Asterousia mountains, but also from Gavdos to Chrissi islet. It is a unique experience that anyone should have, as long as you get properly prepared for the cold night in the 2500m altitude (the temperature falls below freezing point even in August). Also there is no vegetation and water over 2000m, so be sure you have water and a hat while ascending.

Rouvas gorge at Psiloritis Range

Previously Psiloritis was covered by large pine forests, which are now very limited. The remaining ones, however, indicate how the green slopes used to be a few centuries ago. One of the largest forests of Crete, near the Gergeri village, the holly wood of Rouvas, is home to endemic and rare species of plants and animals. Morever, the southern slopes of Psiloritis, from Zaros to Vorizia, host a rare pineforest. Other smaller forests are these in the plateau Vromonero next to Kroussonas and Pardi, near Amari valley.

The local fauna is very rich and Psiloritis is extremely important for the biodiversity of Crete. Psiloritis is home to rare birds of prey, such as bearded vultures, common vultures, golden eagles and red-tailed hawks. Also, the forest of Rouvas shelters one of the rarest mammals in Europe, the “ghost” Cretan Wildcat.

Apart from the woods of Rouvas, Vromonero and Pardi, you can visit the beautiful villages around the Psiloritis slopes. In mountainous Mylopotamos area, with Anogia being its capital, you will meet authentic Cretan people, and on the villages on the south slopes of Psiloritis you will enjoy the magnificent views of the plain of Messara. From Anogia you can visit the Nida Plateau and the cave Ideon Andron, the ancient Zominthos and Skinakas Observatory. You can also visit the plateau Livadi and return to Heraklion via the alternative road that runs along Gaidourorachi Gorge.

The Ida is full of caves with the largest cave being the magical Sfendoni in Zoniana, which can be visited. Other caves are those of Kamilari in Tylisos, Gerontospilios in Melidoni, Doxa in Marathi, the cave of Kamares, Chonos in Sarhos and Marathospilios. You can also visit the karstic Voulismeno Aloni near Tylisos, formed after the collapse of a large cave.

Melidoni Cave in north Psiloritis outskirts

The gigantic mountain Psiloritis stores huge amounts of water while snow on the peaks remains till May or June. These quantities, through underground rivers, reach many areas around the Mountains. You can visit the beautiful springs in Spili, the lake Votomos in Zaros, the dam of Faneromeni in Messara Plain, and the springs of Almyros near Heraklion.

The mountains of Psiloritis are crossed by wild and deep gorges. It Is noteworthy to mention the lush gorge of Agios Nikolaos in Rouvas, the rugged gorge in Vorizia, the canyon of Almiros starting from Stroumboulas Plateau and the Platania Gorge in Amari valley.

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This range lies between Heraklion and Lassithi. Its highest summit is Spathi (2.148 m) and there are two more peaks at an altitude of more than 2000m.

Lassithi Plateau, the largest in Crete, lies at the heart of the range at an altitude of 850 m. It is surrounded by a series of smaller plateaus such as Katharo, Limnakaro, Mari, Lapathos, Omalos, Erganos and Nisimos. There is a mountain shelter at Limnakaro from where hikers ascend to Spathi.

Several gorges are found in the range of Lassithi. Apart from the two gorges named Havgas at Katharo and Kalamafka, there are more canyons such as Sarakina, Adrianos, Ambelos, Roza and Kritsa.

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The Dikti range has shown a significant diversity in flora and fauna. The lower mountain sides are covered by olive, carob and pine trees. To the south-east, Selakano is the largest pine wood of Crete and close to the village Krasi lies the holm oak wood of Azilakodasos.

The fertile plateaus and valleys of the Dikti range produce a large variety of agricultural products: potatoes, vegetable, pears, apples, walnuts, cherries, etc. Livestock breeding (sheep and goats) is yet another traditional activity in this region. The famous Diktaean Cave where Zeus is said to have been born is open to the public.

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Asterousia Mountains are the southernmost range in Greece, located on the south side of Heraklion Prefecture. It is a narrow range, shaped between Messara plain and the South Cretan Sea. Starting on the east from Anapodaris river, it ends in the tip of Messara, Lithino Cape.

The average altitude of Asteroussia is not very high (<1250m), but access is quite tough because the terrain is very rugged, with many gorges and canyons. Asterousia main features are the warm temperatures, rare rainfalls and very low vegetation. The few trees that are struggling to grow are eaten by the hungry goats that are destroying everything. Bare mountains, sharp rocks and steep cliffs, falling in the sea, give an eerie character to the entire region making these landscapes unique in Europe.

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A detailed tour of Asterousia

The tour of Asterousia starts from the East and heads to the West. Starting either from Tsoutsouras or Mesochori village one can visit the Monastery of Saint Nikitas, with the great beach next to it, and the small palm wood of Saint Anthony. Driving along the steep slopes of the gorge of Achentrias leads to the small oasis with plane trees in Maridaki settlement. However, as it may sound strange, walking the amazing footpath to Maridaki from Tsoutsouras takes 25’, while driving in the rough dirt road aside Achentrias Gorge takes one and a half hours! In order to head to the west from Maridaki, you should drive back to Messara plain, as there is no other way. When returning, it is worth driving through the traditional village of Ethia or end up in Pirgos.

Near Pirgos starts a road to the village Paranymfi and then to the seaside village of Tris Ekklisies, where the largest natural carob wood in Crete is located. The scenery while driving in the paved track is unbelievable, with sharp cliffs and steep bare rocks ending in the sea. Near Paranymfi you should visit the spectacular waterfall of Ambas, in the beginning of the homonymous gorge. The surrounding area of the canyon is home to the largest insular colony of birds of prey in Europe.

Ambas Fall by Paranimfi in winter; Asterousia Range in winter turns into a land of waterfalls!

After returning to the plain of Messara, you can try driving in the most impressive track on Asterousia Mountains, the road to the monastery Koudoumas. The road runs from the village Sternes, but there is an alternative through the restored village of Kapetaniana and passes next to the highest peak of Asteroussia, Kofinas (1231m). The view from there is spectacular and climbing on the mountain is certainly worth every inconvenience. A narrow dirt road, with amazing views to the sea, descends from an altitude of 1000 meters to the sea level, passing through a scenic pine forest and the wild Koudoumas gorge. The road stops on the nice beach, next to the Monastery Koudoumas. From there you can walk westbound to the Cave of Saint Anthony and later to the settlement of Agios Ioannis. Agios Ioannis can be alternatively accessed by car only via a dirt road starting from Kapetaniana.

Continuing, following the road heading southwest of the village of Vassiliki will take you to the gorge of Tripiti, with the church of Panagia built in the rock. The road runs in the gorge, passes through the large olive wood of Agios Savvas, and leads through very narrow passages to the stunning beach of Tripiti. From Tripiti starts a second dirt road that continues west towards Krotos, across the wild and eerie landscape of arid Asterousia.

The imposing gorge of Tripiti to the east of Lendas

This track leads to the small resort of Lendas, which according to the tradition was the point from where Zeus arrived in Crete, in the form of a bull, carrying Europa on his back. In order to reach Lendas, named so after the large hill that looks like a lion head, you can get the asphalt roads that start from the villages Agios Kyrilos and Miamou.

From Lendas, you can follow the partially paved road leading to the west along the beautiful shores and the small settlements. After passing Platia Peramata you will meet the beautiful beach of Chrysostomos, the site of ancient Lassea. Heading further west brings you to the vast calm beach of Kali Limenes. Opposite Kali Limenes, you will see the refineries of Vardinoyiannis family, while on the opposite hill you’ll see the little chapel of Saint PaulSaint Paul. Just next to the church there is a small cave, where according to tradition, Saint Paul lived for 2 years while traveling to Rome. Kali Limenes can also be reached via asphalted road starting from Pompia village, near Mires. Kali Limenes is actually the stopping point of the road network covering the western Asterousia. Untouched landscapes of rugged beauty where only bad dirt roads can reach (or hiking is required), deep gorges and canyons compose the scenery to the west.

The church of Saint Anthony in gorge Agiofarago

West of Kali Limenes there is a dirt road leading to the Monastery of Hodeghetria, that can be mainly reached through a paved road starting from Sivas. The monastery is one of the most historic in Crete, having played an impotant role during the Ottoman Era. It still has vast areas in its possession. The gorge Agiofarago is formed close to Hodeghetria. This is one of the most beautiful gorges of Crete, which ends on the spectacular pebbly beach Agiofarago. Hiking in the canyon is very easy and takes about 30 minutes (from the nearest car point). In the gorge there are many caverns where hermits from Hodeghetria still live. You can continue your journey west of Agiofarago, if you follow the dirt road leading to Vathy and starting from Hodeghetria. First you will find a turn to Martsalo. If you follow this road you will reach the lovely carved church of Panagia Martsaliani. From there walk in the gorge of the area and after a small palm wood you will end up in the small beach of Martsalo. This gorge has also been a center for asceticism before.

From the last junction, you can follow the other road to Kefali or Vathy. It is worth driving to Kefali, one of the most amazing parts of Crete, located next to Cape Lithino, the tip of Messara. Driving in a fairly rough dirt road will take you in a small plateau with German pillboxes on the edge of which vertical cliffs, 400m high, fall abruptly into the sea. Standing on the edge can cause dizziness and will surely leave you breathless. Go back again and drive north to Vathy beach, a beautiful closed cove, looking like a lake. The walls of the local gorge are made of limestone and, thus, have been eroded by water and time. The road from Hodeghetria, ends here, and so does our guide along these amazing mountains. The last beach of west Asterousia to the west is the famous Matala and the hard to reach Red Beach next to it.

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Jiouchtas is located west of Archanes, about 10km south of Heraklion. It's a small lonely mountain with a maximum height of 811m, but it occupies a special position in the heart of the Cretans. Located in a unique landscape with vineyards and olive groves, it is bounded by fertile valleys on the north, the green Sylamiano Gorge on the east and the valley of the river Giofiros on the west.

In the ancient times it was considered a sacred mountain, mainly because it resembles a human face that looks to the sky from the northwest. Even today the human like mountain causes awe. According to the legend, this is the face of Zeus and the mountain is his grave. Indeed the name Jiouchtas is a corruption of the latin word for Zeus, Jupiter.

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The mountain was very important for the Minoans since it was the first mountain they saw while their ships approached the shores of Crete. Here they built two Minoan sanctuaries, the one at the highest point of the mountain (Psili Korfi) and the second at the position Anemospilia. It is interesting, that a human skeleton was found in the latter shrine, lying on the altar with a knife thrust into its. This is considered the first evidence of human sacrifice by the Minoans, that survived in time probably because the building collapsed, possibly due to an earthquake, right at the time of sacrifice. There are also several caves on Jiouchtas, where significant cult objects were found, such as Hosto Nero and Stravomytis caves.

The Minoan civilization was later destroyed, but the worship of Jiouktas remains till today. Indeed, one of the highest peaks hosts the four-aisled temple of Lord Christ, from where the views are stunning to the entire Heraklion prefecture. The church is built on the edge of a steep towering cliff. The church celebrates on August 6 and for a week the mountain is lighted and visible from Heraklion city. To reach the church you could either walk the ascending trail starting from Archanes or, more easily, drive in the passable dirt road that stops in the church.

The mountain vegetation is low, but there are small clumps of cypress and pine trees in many areas. The inaccessible vertical cliffs of Jiouchtas are a unique haven for eagles and vultures. Indeed, the Venetian traveler Buondelmonti in his book describing the island of Crete (1418), makes a reference to an amazing story that took place in Jiouktas, which deserves mentioning here. When the traveler visited Arhanes, famous for its winery, he decided to climb the sacred mountain and see its top. There he saw two children chasing young eagles. One child was holding a rope and moved his friend down the vertical cliff to reach the nest of an eagle. Suddenly the mother of the chick came over and grabbed the boy, taking that in the sky. They all witnessed a dramatic miracle when the eagle flew up and safely transferred the scared child to a nearby spot, where she left it tenderly. This amazing story seems too far-fetched, it may was inspired by local stories, but we cannot be sure that it’s not true.

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Mount Kedros is located southwest of Psiloritis Range, with the valley of Amari shaped between them. The highest peak reaches 1777m. From afar it seems to have a conical shape (kentri), after which it takes its name.

The mountain is mostly rocky, with bare rocks and wild gorges. At first glance one might say that the vegetation is very poor. However, Kedros has been included in the Natura 2000 network because of its exceptional biodiversity. Vegetation although limited in bushes and brushwood, consists of endemic and rare varieties of plants such as tulips, anemones, orchids, hyacinths, etc. Also, the steep and inaccessible slopes are perfect shelters for rare birds of prey such as hawks, vultures and golden eagles.

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Around Kedros there are several picturesque villages. In the North, the beautiful plateau of Gious Kambos and the Kissos Gorge are formed. Kedros is one of the favorite places for excursions for all hiking clubs of Crete.

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Thripti Range is the fifth highest mountain range of Crete, also called Aori. The highest peak of Thripti mountains is called Stavromenos (1476m). The mountains of Thripti are covered by a beautiful pine forest, which has unfortunately shrunk due to human presence and fires.

Moreover, near the Plateau of Thripti start the imposing wild gorge Ha and gorge Mesonas. On the southern slopes of these mountains there are some of the most scenic villages in Crete, such as the lush Orino village, and the seaside resort of Makrygialos. There are also the amazing green gorges of Pefki, Mylonas and Orino.

Because of the rugged morphology and the ideal climatic conditions, the area of Thripti hosts several endemic species of flora such as arhontoxylo, aladania, anemone and the Cretan cyclamen. Lastly, the walls of the canyons, especially the unreachable Ha Gorge, shelter threatened species of birds of prey like the endangered bearded vulture (gypaetus barbatus) and the golden eagle.

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The Talean Mountains are located in northern Crete and are essentially an extension of Psiloritis Range to the north. They are separated from main range of Psiloritis from the fertile valley of Mylopotamos to the south. The highest peaks are Koutsotroulis  (1084m) and Kouloukonas (1076m). The rocks consist primarily of platy limestone and vegetation is low and hard to walk. Despite the relatively low altitude of the mountains, the rocky slopes are extremely steep and climbing in any of the peaks is very hard. Therefore, there are also very few roads crossing this small mountain range.

The Talean Mountains take their name after the mythical bronze giant -guard of Crete- Talos, who wandered Crete three times a day and guarded it. Tradition says that Talos lived atop summit Kouloukonas.

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Mount Kryoneritis (meaning Cold Water) rises in south Rethymno prefecture and is quite steep, reaching the highest peak at an altitude of 1310m. The rocky grounds are rough limestone and the few trees are mostly limited to maples and hollies.

The mountain is crossed by the European Hiking foottrail E4 that connects Rodakino with Alones. Another vertical trail also climbs to the peak, a few meters above the temple of the Holy Spirit (Agio Pnevma) with the water spring that gives the name Kryoneritis to the mountain. From the peak, one descend to the village Miriokefala.

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The mountainous area of the White Mountains extends to the east of Sfakia, south of the prefecture of Rethymnon, creating a small mountain range parallel to the coastal zone of the prefecture, including the main peaks of Kryoneritis and Kouroupa.

Mount Kouroupa is the geological continuation of the White Mountains with the highest peak reaching 1,001m. (984m according to the Army Geographical Service). Other peaks are Korakias at 736m that was a Minoan place of worship since ancient times and Kyrimanou at 805m. that was a settlement of the ancient Cretans between the 12th and the 8th century BC. To the southeast of the mountain is the Kourtaliotis Gorge and to the west the Kotsifos Gorge. At the top of Kouroupa there is a telecommunication antenna and the church of the Holy Spirit (Agio Pnevma), which was built in place of the old homonymous temple, which is located next to the new one and is half-destroyed. The top is accessible on foot or with a 4WD car from two dirt roads. One starts at the village of Atsipades and the other from the village of Koxare, both on the northeastern side of the mountain. On the south side are the villages Asomatos, Mariou and Myrthios, while the north part hosts the settlement Kanevos. The mountain is difficult to hike as its terrain consists of pointing and sharp rocks and steep ravines that make it quite dangerous. Also in the mountain in the winter, unexpected fog and high rainfall often prevail, while the humidity is increased throughout the year. From the top of the mountain the visitor has a view of the South Cretan Sea, the east part of Sfakia, southern Rethymnon and villages of Western Rethymnon.

This area on the southern coast of Rethymno prefecture is very important for the preservation of the bearded vulture, as one of the only last four breeding couples of Crete and the Balkans is reproduced here (2017). There are also other priority species such as griffon vulture (Gyps fulvus) 15 breeding couples), golden eagle (one couple) and Bonelli's eagle (one couple). The importance of the area for predators is also explained by its geographical position since Kouroupa is a connecting link between the mountains of the White Mountains and those of Central and South-East Crete (Psiloritis and Kedros)..

Mountaineering clubs of Crete manage shelters on all mountain ranges of Crete. Travellers who want to stay in them should contact these clubs prior to their visit.

The most popular mountain shelter is Kallergis, east of Omalos plateau in the White Mountains, built at one of the more breathtaking spots on Crete, at an altitude of 1.680 m. Other shelters of the White Mountains include Tavri (1.210 m), Houliopoulos at Svourichti (1.980 m) and Volikas at Keramia (1.450 m). Moreover, there is another shelter at Greleska, overlooking the lush gorge of Agia Irini, which serves as wildlife observatory. The Psiloritis range has four main shelters; Toumbotos Prinos (1.590 m), Lakkos Migerou (1.710 m) from where the trail to Timios Stavros summit starts, Prinos above Asites (1.100 m) and Zaros shelter at the position Samari (1.417 m). Two more shelters are located in Lassithi. The first, managed by the mountaineering club of Lassithi, is located at the position Strovili on Limnakaro plateau (1533 m). The second is the small shelter of Afendis Stavromenos summit atop Thripti (1.476 m).

Sitiaka is a low mountain range of Eastern Crete covering most of the province Sitia and are the Natural Park of Sitia, which belongs to the UNESCO Geopark Network. Along with the small mountain ranges of Orno and Thrypti, they cover the largest mountainous part of the region east of Ierapetra.

The highest peak of the Sitia Mountains is Plagia (817m) in the area of Zakros and their core is the region of Karidi with dozens of caves. Despite their low altitude, crossing Sitiaka by car, due to its intense geographic features, is tiring.

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